Frequently Asked Questions

HomeGuide's national range is $1.50 to $5.00 per square foot installed, with open-cell at the lower end and closed-cell at the higher end, and many installers have a $1,000 to $2,000 minimum. Foam on a roof deck runs about $1,500 to $9,000. We give you a written price after seeing the house, and that is what you pay.

If your air handler and ducts are in the attic, roof-deck foam brings them inside the insulated space and usually makes the house easier to cool. If the attic is open and the ducts are in good shape, sealing the ceiling and blowing in insulation costs less. We price both when both are reasonable.

Texas follows the 2015 IRC energy chapter for one- and two-family homes, and the Zone 3 table lists R-38 for ceilings. For existing attics, ENERGY STAR suggests R-49 for an empty attic or adding about R-38 over existing insulation.

Open-cell is the usual choice for roof decks in this climate because it seals well and costs less per inch. Closed-cell is better for metal buildings and tight spaces where you need more R-value per inch.

Yes. Closed-cell foam bonded to the steel removes the cold surface where moisture condenses, and it insulates the building at the same time.

Yes. HomeGuide advises staying out at least 24 hours after spray foam is applied. Blown-in insulation does not require that.

Two-part spray foam systems come from several national chemical companies. What matters most is that the product is rated for the application and installed at the right temperature and ratio, with any required thermal or ignition barrier.

Some shingle manufacturers have specific terms for unvented roofs. Check your shingle warranty; we can show you the foam product information to share with your roofer.

Roof-deck foam keeps the attic much closer to indoor temperature, which helps ducts and the air handler work less.

Properly installed, it stays in place for the life of the building.

The Texas code's Zone 3 table lists R-38; ENERGY STAR recommends up to R-49 for existing homes.

A radiant barrier reflects some heat but is not a substitute for insulation and air sealing. We focus on R-value and sealing.

Usually thin insulation, leaky knee walls and ducts in a hot attic. Sealing and insulating the right surfaces helps.

Most are done in a day.

It depends on the wall and roof assembly and how you cool the space. We size it and show the R-value on the quote.

Yes. Foam bonded to the steel removes the cold surface where condensation forms.

The county states it does not issue building permits in unincorporated areas. City limits and deed restrictions can add rules.

Yes, noticeably.

Roughly 10 to 14 inches depending on the material; R-49 is deeper. We leave markers.

Somewhat. We install to the settled depth needed for the R-value.

Yes, if the ducts are sealed. If the ducts are a major problem, roof-deck foam may be better.

Yes, with dense-pack through small holes.

It seals air leaks at plates, outlets and windows as well as insulating, which batts do not.

Yes, with dense-pack through small holes.

Open-cell is common and cost-effective; closed-cell gives more R-value per inch.

Yes, especially west-facing walls in summer.

Water stains, droppings, odor, mold or a matted look.

No. It should be tested and handled by an asbestos abatement contractor.

Vacuum removal keeps it contained; we protect the path through the house.

Not always; sometimes only a damaged section.